How to Play
Pick a mode. 30 Targets is a race: hit thirty targets as fast as you can, with every miss adding a 0.5-second penalty to your final time. 60 Seconds is a throughput test: score as many hits as possible in one minute, with each miss costing you a point. Targets are static — one appears at a time and never moves — so the only variables are how quickly you get your cursor there and whether you land the click. Each new target spawns a minimum distance away from the one you just hit, so there is always travel involved and you can never camp in one spot.
Targets shrink as a run progresses, from roughly 5.5% of the play area's short side down to about 2.6% — a difference of more than four times in area. In 30 Targets the shrink is tied to how many you have hit, so the last few targets of every run are always the smallest. In 60 Seconds it is tied to your hit count as well, which means the better you play the smaller they get: the mode scales its difficulty to you. Every run ends with a letter grade and a hit map plotting each shot relative to target center, and your best result is saved separately for each mode.
Tips
- In 30 Targets, S+ requires an average reaction time under 630ms with at least 95% accuracy. S is 750ms, A is 880ms, B is 1030ms, and C is 1330ms — accuracy gates only the top tier, because the mode is fundamentally a speed test.
- In 60 Seconds the tiers are score-based: 95 for S+ (again with 95% accuracy), 80 for S, 68 for A, 58 for B, 45 for C.
- A miss in 30 Targets costs half a second, which is far more than you would ever save by clicking early. Spamming loses in both modes.
- Bring your cursor back toward the middle of the play area after each hit. Average travel distance drops, and travel distance is most of your time.
- Never change your sensitivity mid-session to chase a score — you will destroy the muscle memory that produced your previous results and spend the next hour rebuilding it.
Flicking, Tracking, and Target Switching
"Aim" is not one skill. It is at least three, and they train differently enough that being good at one tells you very little about the others.
Flicking is moving from wherever your crosshair happens to be onto a target in one committed motion, then stopping on it. It is ballistic: you plan the movement, execute it quickly, and any correction happens at the very end. Tracking is holding your crosshair on something that keeps moving — a continuous, closed-loop task that feels completely different in the hand and depends far more on smooth control than on explosive speed. Target switching is flicking repeatedly between several targets in sequence, which is what most real firefights actually demand once more than one opponent is involved.
This trainer is a flick and target-switching test. Nothing moves, exactly one target exists at a time, and your score is dominated by how fast you can travel to it and stop cleanly. That makes it a strong tool for the specific skill of acquiring a static target — which maps well onto peeking angles, snapping to head height, and clicking heads in tactical shooters — and a poor proxy for tracking-heavy games where the challenge is holding a beam on someone strafing.
Identifying which of the three is actually holding you back matters more than grinding whichever one you enjoy most. If your real problem is that you cannot stay on a moving target, more flick practice will not fix it, no matter how good your grade gets here.
Sensitivity: DPI, eDPI, and cm/360
DPI (or CPI) is how many counts your mouse reports per inch of physical movement. In-game sensitivity is a multiplier applied to those counts. eDPI is simply the two multiplied together, and it exists so that players can compare settings across different mice — a 400 DPI mouse at 2.0 sensitivity and an 800 DPI mouse at 1.0 have the same eDPI and, in most games, the same feel.
The more useful measure is cm/360: how many centimeters of mousepad you must move to turn a full circle. Because it is a physical distance, it stays comparable across games that scale their sensitivity sliders differently, and it is what your arm actually learns. Whatever number you settle on, write it down and reproduce it everywhere you play.
There is no single correct sensitivity, but there is a correct process: pick one, keep it long enough that your hand stops thinking about it, and change it only when you can name the specific problem the change solves. Motor learning here is calibration — your brain builds a mapping between how far you moved and how far the crosshair went. Every sensitivity change discards that mapping and makes you a beginner again for a while, which is why players who tweak constantly plateau early.
Broadly, a lower sensitivity (larger cm/360) pushes you toward aiming with the arm and shoulder. That is more accurate over large flicks but demands mousepad space and a desk low enough to rest your forearm on. A higher sensitivity keeps everything in the wrist, which is quick for small adjustments but makes precise stops harder, because a small tremor becomes a large crosshair movement. Most competitive players sit lower than beginners expect, and most beginners overshoot constantly because their sensitivity outruns their current level of control.
Common Mistakes That Cap Your Aim
- Changing sensitivity every week. The most common self-inflicted wound in aim practice. Consistency beats optimality by a wide margin.
- Aiming entirely with the wrist at a low sensitivity. If your cm/360 is large, the wrist physically cannot cover the distance, so you end up chaining small corrections instead of making one clean motion. Anchor the forearm and drive from the arm.
- Not enough mousepad. If you regularly lift and reposition mid-flick, your aim has a hard ceiling regardless of skill.
- Overshooting and then micro-correcting. That is two motions instead of one, and the second is the slow one. It is better to land slightly short and correct inward once than to blow past and hunt backwards.
- Warming up in ranked. Your first ten minutes are your worst ten minutes. Spend them somewhere that does not cost you anything.
- Practising while tired. Precision degrades quickly with fatigue, and practicing a sloppy motion trains a sloppy motion.
- Chasing the number instead of the movement. A run in which you consciously executed clean single-motion flicks is worth more than a marginally faster run of frantic corrections.
How to Practise So It Sticks
Short and frequent beats long and occasional. Motor skills consolidate between sessions rather than during them, so ten focused minutes on most days will outperform a single long session per week — and the back half of a long session is usually fatigued practice that reinforces exactly the habits you are trying to remove.
A workable structure is a few minutes of deliberately slow, near-perfect repetitions to wake the movement pattern up, then a handful of runs at full speed, then stop. Treat the slow accurate block as non-negotiable; going straight to maximum effort is how you spend an entire session flailing and learn nothing from it.
Attend to one thing per session rather than everything at once. This run, think only about stopping on the target instead of past it. Next run, think only about keeping the motion a single movement. Attention spread across five cues produces no learning on any of them. And hold the hardware fixed — same mouse, same DPI, same pad, same chair height. When results swing wildly from day to day, the variable is almost always posture or fatigue rather than talent.
Reading Your Hit Map
The hit map shown at the end of a run plots every shot relative to the center of the target it was aimed at, which turns a vague feeling about your aim into something you can actually diagnose.
A tight cluster centered on the middle means your aim is well calibrated and your next gain will come from pushing speed. A tight cluster consistently offset in one direction points at something systematic — grip, a wrist angle that biases your flicks, or a habit of stopping short in a particular direction. A wide, evenly scattered spread usually means your sensitivity is too high for your current control, or that you are firing before the cursor has settled.
Missing beyond the target in your direction of travel is overshoot: you are committing more motion than the distance needs. Missing short of it is undershoot, which is the more forgivable error, since the correction is inward and fast. Most players improve by deliberately erring short for a while.
About Aim Trainer
Aim Trainer is a free online aim practice tool for FPS players, built to run instantly in a browser with no download and no account. It focuses on the click-timing and target-acquisition side of aim: static targets, one at a time, shrinking as you improve, with penalties designed so that accuracy counts rather than rewarding a spray-of-clicks strategy.
The two modes ask different questions. 30 Targets measures how fast you can complete a fixed workload, which makes it the better mode for tracking improvement over weeks, since the task never changes. 60 Seconds measures throughput against a fixed clock and adapts as you go — the more you hit, the smaller the targets become — so it stays demanding as your skill rises.
Runs are graded on a six-tier scale from D up to S+, with an accuracy requirement attached only to the top tier, and every shot is plotted on a hit map so you can see the shape of your error rather than just its size. Your best time and best score are stored locally in your browser, tracked separately for each mode.